10 Best Things To Do In Haida Gwaii
Mention that you’re heading to Haida Gwaii and you either get a blank stare or that knowing look you get from someone with a shared secret. This Canadian archipelago is elusive but intrepid travellers who make it there are rewarded with its ethereal beauty. In this guide, I share ten of the best things to do in Haida Gwaii – the Galapagos of the North.
From the moment you start planning your trip to Haida Gwaii, it will become clear that it is special place. No one makes it there by accident. Getting there requires careful planning and a pledge to be a responsible guest (which includes an orientation on how to fulfill that pledge). I fell in love as soon as the fog started lifting to reveal the oldest spruce trees on the planet during my ferry ride to Graham Island.
Haida Gwaii is unlike any other place in Canada. Unlike the mainland, Haida Gwaii did not freeze over during the latest Ice Age, allowing ancient strains of flora and fauna to thrive only on these islands. The islands have a mystical aura about them that you don’t necessarily need to follow an itinerary to experience this… magic.
Nevertheless, since you have gone all this way, I am sharing my suggestions for things to do and places to explore in Haida Gwaii that you may not want to miss.
To help with our discussion, here is a map of the two principal islands of the Haida Gwaii archipelago – Graham Island and Moresby Island (separated by the Skidegate Channel).
1) Visit Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area, and Haida Heritage Site
…or Gwaii Haanas for short.
Gwaii Haanas in the Haida language means “islands of beauty”. This is where “the Galapagos of the North” nickname for the region came from. Here, you will find remarkable levels of biodiversity. In the heart of it all is SGang Gwaay – the ruins of an ancient Haida village that has received UNESCO World Heritage site designation for exemplifying the Haida’s artistic heritage. Gwaii Haanas is the only national park in the world that is co-managed by a colonial government and the indigenous nation that have inhabited the land for thousands of years.
Travel tip: getting to Gwaii Haanas takes careful planning. There are no roads into the park. Gwaii Haanas is only accessible by boat, kayak, or seaplane and therefore your visit to Gwaii Haanas is entirely dependent on weather. Have some flexibility in your scheduling to account for this. Contact tour operators in advance to understand when and how to book your visit to Gwaii Haanas. Every tour operator I reached out to were helpful and really tried to make my (rigid) itinerary work. Regardless of whether you plan on getting to Gwaii Haanas independently or through a licensed tour operator, you need to do the following:
- make a reservation at the park
- pay the park visitor use fee
- attend the mandatory orientation at the Gwaii Haanas Office
2) Relax in a natural pool in G̱andll K’in Gwaayaay (Hotspring Island in English)
Hotspring Island is located within Gwaii Haanas. It is under the protection of the Watchmen – protectors of sensitive areas of high cultural significance to the Haida Nation. The island is aptly named for the natural, hot springs located on its southwestern end. Those who adventure to Hotspring Island may relax in one of the hot springs while watching whale pods pass by.
Travel tip: contact the Sandspit Visitors Centre directly to plan your visit to Hotspring Island as they would have the latest tips and information on available tour operators.
3) Learn about the Haida Culture
Visiting the Haida Cultural Centre in Skidegate was one of my favourite excursions on Haida Gwaii. The Centre celebrates the living culture of the Haida people – their history, art, and language . The Haida Cultural Centre includes the Haida Gwaii Museum, the Carving House, the Canoe House, and a performance space. I was able to learn so much about the fascinating Haida Nation in one afternoon. The Haida Cultural Centre gave me important context and history of the people and places that I saw on the archipelago and this is why it was my absolute favourite thing to do in Haida Gwaii.
4) Visit Naikoon Provincial Park
Naikoon Provincial Park is located on Graham Island and is accessible by roads. It takes up about 7% of Haida Gwaii’s total land mass. Naikoon Provincial Park features a diverse and beautiful landscape. The Tow Hill Ecological Reserve and Rose Spit Ecological Reserve lie within the park, protecting the area’s ecological diversity and ecosystems.
If you seek to connect with nature, add a visit to Naikoon Provincial Park to your list of things to do in Haida Gwaii. You may encounter sea otters, black bears and deer. It is also an ideal location for birdwatching.
5) Go Hiking
There are plenty of hiking trails available in Haida Gwaii for hikers of all experience levels. Hiking was my favourite way of exploring the ethereal beauty of the archipelago. There are trails that allow hikers to explore Haida Gwaii’s temperate rainforests, coastal landscapes and even ancient Haida sites.
Some of the most famous trails include North Beach Trail and Tow Hill Trail in Naikoon Provincial Park, as well as the Tlell River Trail in Gwaii Haanas National Park. Smaller trails located near communities like Skidegate, Masset and Daajing Giids also offer hikers easy access to wilderness and the archipelago’s natural beauty.
Travel tip: some of the more famous treks in Haida Gwaii may require a permit or licensed guide. Make sure to plan ahead to avoid disappointment!
6) Explore the Waters
Whether you are looking for a leisure paddle or a more challenging adventure, Haida Gwaii is the perfect place for a kayaking experience. There are plenty of places offering to rent kayaks around Haida Gwaii. You can opt to explore independently or join a kayak tour. As you paddle around the archipelago, keep your eyes peeled for sea otters, seals, porpoises and massive bald eagles!
For an epic adventure, there are multi-day kayak tours that will take you into Gwaii Haanas National Park but as mentioned before, this would require ample notice to plan properly and obtain the permits.
Travel tip: the waters around Haida Gwaii may appear calm but can get quite unpredictable at times. If exploring independently, remember the tips provided by the kayak rental operator. Also, many businesses in Haida Gwaii have very flexible hours. When planning on going on a kayaking adventure, be flexible in your itinerary as you may need to wait for the window when kayak rental places are open.
7) Go Fishing
I am not the biggest angler so I may not be the best source for this activity but Haida Gwaii is renowned for some world-class fishing. Fishing is popular activity with the locals as well. The locals often offered me salmon during my stay in Daajing Giids. Besides various types of salmon, the saltwater and freshwater around Haida Gwaii also have halibut, trout, and lingcod.
You need a valid fishing license to fish in Haida Gwaii. Again, as a non-angler, I don’t really know the specifics around the regulations so it is best to check them if you want to go fishing. The archipelago has both recreational and Indigenous-led fishing practices, with some areas requiring permission or involvement from local Indigenous communities. To take the guesswork out of planning a fishing trip to Haida Gwaii, there many local operators providing guided fishing expeditions.
Go Whale Watching
The nutrient-rich waters around Haida Gwaii make it a perfect place to go whale watching. Whale watchers commonly spot humpback, gray, and minke whales around Haida Gwaii, with orca whales occasionally making an appearance. You try your luck and try to spot whale pods from the shores of Haida Gwaii. Alternatively, you can book a whale watching tour with a local tour operator.
Things to note if you if you’re coming to Haida Gwaii for whale watching:
- orcas can appear at any time during the year
- humpback whales arrive in February staying until the fall, and
- gray whales visit from March to June
Watch for Wildlife
Haida Gwaii is nicknamed “the Galapagos of the North” for its unique biodiversity and the presence of flora and fauna here that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. The remoteness of the region has helped preserve its unique ecosystems much like the remoteness of the actual Galápagos Islands.
If you come to Haida Gwaii, you may encounter the following animals in the wild:
- Marine animals: as previously mentioned, you can spot whales, sea otters, seals and porpoises in the coastal waters.
- Birds: as a stop for migratory birds, you can spot up to 200 different species of birds while in Haida Gwaii. I saw many bald eagles and kingfishers during my visit and heard that people often spot puffins in the archipelago.
- Land animals: my first encounter with a black bear was in Daajing Giids on the Spirit Lake Trail. I also saw some black-tailed deer on my way to the Sleeping Beauty Trail.
Explore on Two Wheels
Regardless of where you stay in Haida Gwaii, navigating the islands on foot would take a very long time. Also, there is no public transportation on the islands (though the friendly locals are very accommodating to hitchhikers). I recommend having a set of wheels for at least a day to do any of the things listed in this article at your own pace.
When I spontaneously ended up in Haida Gwaii directly after it was reopened for visitors after the pandemic, I had a challenge finding a rental car on Graham Island. There are many unpaved and logging roads in Haida Gwaii that a car would be the preferred mode of transportation. The only option I had was to rent a scooter.
Riding the scooter on the main paved road which connects the villages on Graham Island provided some of the most scenic (and wettest) drives of my life.
What were your favourite things to do in Haida Gwaii? Did you have any questions? I would love to hear from you in the comments below!