The sunsets over Lake Nicaragua as people complete their laundry on the base of Volcan Concepcion in Ometepe Island in Nicaragua

5 Essential Travel Tips for Isla de Ometepe

The secret on Ometepe Island is out (pronounced: oh-MAY-te-peh). This idyllic island formed by TWO volcanoes in the middle of the largest lake in Central America has long since been an unmissable stop on the backpacker route. Do you need help finding your way to Isla de Ometepe? You have come to the right place! In this post, I share the essential travel tips for Isla de Ometepe.

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<3 Dominique

1) Understand the geography of Isla de Ometepe

I think a map would help make this post easier to follow, especially if you are going to Ometepe for the first time:

Ometepe is an island in the middle of Lago Cocibolca (aka Lake Nicaragua). Volcán Concepción can be found on the northwest half of Ometepe, Volcán Maderas on its southeast half, and the Istian isthmus connects these two halves to form a peanut-shaped island.

A lady in a wide brimmed hat looks back at Volcan Concepcion at the airport in Isla de Ometepe in Nicaragua. — Volcán Concepción is an active volcano. With an elevation of 1,610 m/5,280 ft, it makes Isla de Ometepe the tallest lake island in the world. It is considered extremely beautiful because of how perfectly symmetrical it is.

Volcan Madera rises above the horizon, as seen from Volcan Concepción. Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua. — Volcán Maderas is a dormant volcano. A lagoon has formed at its crater that supports diverse wildlife. The sides of Volcán Maderas are covered with coffee and tobacco plantations and rainforest. This area of Ometepe earned the island a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve designation. Photo credit: Kevin Wells.

Life on Ometepe revolves closely around the two volcanoes. The configuration of the main (paved) road of Isla de Ometepe traces the figure 8 outline of the island.

With an area 276 km² /107 sq mi, Ometepe is the largest island in Nicaragua. I rented a truck for my stay in Ometepe. I had missed a turn when I was looking for the trail to San Ramón waterfall. According to my GPS, a full loop on the main road of Ometepe would have taken two and half hours. Isla de Ometepe is HUGE and should not be underestimated when planning your visit!

The population on the island is around 30,000 people and they are split between two main municipalities: Moyogalpa and Altagracia. There are two main towns on Ometepe that share the name with the main municipalities. Most of residents live in Moyogalpa and Altagracia but there are other villages that dot the shores of Isla de Ometepe.

A road in the center of Moyogalpa in Ometepe Island. — Moyogalpa.

2) Choose the season to visit Isla de Ometepe

Nicaragua has two seasons: wet (May to October) and dry (November to April). Choosing to visit Ometepe during either season would make for a different experience from the other.

High tourist on Ometepe coincides with the dry season. The water in Lago Cocibolca greatly reduces, some rivers disappear altogether, and the ground is dry. This means that kayaking the Istian River may not be possible. In addition, those hiking to the San Ramón waterfall may be disappointed that the falls are reduced to a trickle. However, dry season would be the perfect time to hike up the volcanoes, go exploring on the dirt backroads, and see the sandbar that Punta Jesús María is famous for. The ferry ride over to the island would also be smoother for those who are prone to motion sickness.

A woman walk on the sandbar of Punta Jesus Maria in Isla de Ometepe in Nicaragua. — Punta Jesús María during dry season. You can walk out 1 KM into Lake Nicaragua on this sandbar during this season.

Visiting Ometepe during the wet season would be ideal for those wanting to kayak the Istian River to see the wildlife. The waterfall at San Ramón would also be at its peak for those who want to hike to it. The sandbar at Punta Jesús María disappears altogether. However, you can witness the phenomenon of the waves of Lago Cocibolca coming in from different directions and crashing into each other where the sand bar would be. Navigating becomes tricky around the island during the wet season as landslides take certain roads out of commission. The ferry ride to island will definitely be rockier and sometimes ferries could be cancelled altogether when it’s too unsafe to make the journey.

A woman sits on the base of weak waterfall. — San Ramón Waterfall was a trickle when I hiked it during the high dry season.

3) Getting to Isla de Ometepe

By ferry from San Jorge

Most people get to Ometepe via the ferries. The easiest way to get to Isla de Ometepe is by catching a ferry from the port of San Jorge on mainland Nicaragua. There is a ferry departing from San Jorge every hour, except on Sundays when there is a more limited service.

There are two types of ferries – one that carries cars and leaves on schedule and another that is smaller and leaves only when it is full. From the ticket counter, you can get a ferry ticket for around 50 NIO to either the port of Moyogalpa or San José on Ometepe. Expect to sign in before boarding a ferry by providing a representative your name and passport number.

Passengers are crowded into a ferry on the way to Ometepe Island. — The ferry to Isla de Ometepe could get crowded with locals and backpackers alike.

Moyogalpa is the large port and main town of Ometepe. I recommend this route so you can pick up groceries, access vehicle rentals, and stop by an ATM if needed before heading to your accommodations. ATMs can only be found in Moyogalpa and outside Hotel Villa Paraiso in Santo Domingo. The ferry ride between San Jorge and Moyogalpa is around an hour long.

San José is a smaller port. The boat service here isn’t as frequent as it is for Moyogalpa. There are also less amenities around San José but coming here will bring you closer to the Volcán Maderas side of the island if that is where you are opting to stay. The ferry ride between San Jorge and San José is around 90 minutes long.

By ferry from Granada

There is a ferry between Granada and the port at Altagracia. The ferry leaves Granada every Monday afternoon, stopping in Altagracia on Isla de Ometepe before continuing south to the Solentiname Islands. Tickets range between 90-190 NIO. The ferry returns through Altagracia every Tuesday afternoon. Beware: if the water is rough, it may skip its stop at Altagracia altogether. The ferry ride between Granada and Altagracia takes about four hours.

Since the pandemic, there has been so much unconfirmed information on the new schedule for this route, that I recommend catching the ferry at San Jorge.

Alternatively, you can book a private boat between Granada and Altagracia. This ride would take 90 minutes and would most likely be the most comfortable (and expensive) option to get to Isla de Ometepe.

Read more: 10 Best Things To Do in Granada, Nicaragua

4) Pick your mode of transportation around Isla de Ometepe

Your mode of transportation around Isla de Ometepe can be the make or break of your experience on the island. In this section, I will list the available options and the pros and cons of each.

On foot

The towns of Ometepe are definitely walkable. However, getting from town to town on foot would be quite challenging. The island is HUGE and everything is stretched out across it. If you can cope with the long distances, hilly terrain, and heat the walking between towns may be possible.

A woman walks on small boardwalk into a forest.

Public transportation

If you have limited time in Isla de Ometepe, public transportation might not be your best option to get around. While there is bus service between Moyogalpa and Altagracia that runs every hour, bus services to other villages run only a handful of times a day. You can easily flag down a bus for a ride IF you do spot one.

There are taxis and tuk-tuks available in the main towns. This is especially true around the port of San Jorge. The daily cost of relying on taxis and tuk-tuks will add up and renting your own wheels may make more sense. Also, if you’re getting dropped off somewhere more remote, hailing another taxi or tuk-tuk later could present a challenge.

A tuk tuk driver drives through the streets of Ometepe. — A tuk-tuk driver in Isla de Ometepe.

Bike rental

There are bike rental places throughout the island. You can rent bikes per the hour or per day. Bike rentals are around $5 USD per day. Bikes are ideal to get to the beaches and the loop around Volcán Concepción. Since the road around Volcán Maderas is in rough shape, it might be tougher to explore that part of the island on a bike. There are plenty of bike repair shops around Ometepe as bikes are a popular mode of transportation for locals.

Motorcycle/scooter rental

If you have a driving licence, you can rent a motorcycle or scooter to get around Ometepe. There are plenty of places offering motorcycle and scooters in Moyogalpa. Rentals cost between $15-20 USD per day.

A good amount of the roads around Ometepe are in pretty rough shape. I would only recommend renting a motorcycle or scooter if you are confident in your driving skills. In addition, there are certain roads where you shouldn’t attempt to go through with a motorcycle (e.g. the road to San Ramón waterfall is an accident hot spot). Even if you are confident in your skills, don’t forget to wear a helmet.

View from a car of the road to Volcan Maderas in Ometepe Island in Nicaragua. — The road along Playa Santo Domingo heading towards
Volcán Maderas.

ATV rental

If you have a driving licence but lack experience driving two-wheeled vehicles, then an ATV is safest way to get around Ometepe. This is also perfect if you have passengers. You can find places to rent an ATV in Moyogalpa; the further away you are from the port, the cheaper the rental prices. ATV rentals cost between $45-60 USD per day. An ATV could also tackle the more challenging roads of Ometepe. If choosing to rent an ATV, don’t forget to wear your helmet!

Car rental

Cars and trucks are available to rent on Ometepe. Truck rentals go for $70-80 USD per day. This is the most expensive option in terms of transportation but it would also allow you to explore deeper if short on time.

5) Decide on where you want to stay on Isla de Ometepe

Deciding on which town to stay in would have a direct effect to your experience on Isla de Ometepe. The main towns may be convenient and have all the amenities but they are quite a distance away from the idyllic vibes that people come to the island for. You may want to stay at the more remote nature retreats but depending on your mode of transportation, you may run out of time to explore much of Ometepe.

Prior to your visit to Ometepe, I suggest that you decide on what vibe you’re going for (e.g. do you want to be near the island night life vs something more remote?). In addition, if you’re short on time and there were specific things that you absolutely wanted to do during your time on Ometepe, prioritize your itinerary accordingly. Knowing these two things upfront can help you decide on transportation and where to stay on the island.